
EV 12V battery testing and replacement
A dead EV with a full charge is almost always the small 12V battery, and we can have you back on the road in under an hour. Every EV has two batteries: the big one that moves the car and a small one that runs the computers, locks and screens and wakes the big one up. When the small one fails, nothing works, and Miami heat makes it fail early.
EV 12V battery
- Test the 12V (or 16V on some newer models) battery under load, not just its resting voltage
- Check the DC-to-DC converter that keeps the small battery charged from the big one, since a bad converter kills new batteries too
- Replace the battery with the correct type: lead-acid, AGM or lithium, depending on what the car was built with
- Reset or register the new battery when the car requires it, so warnings clear and charging is correct
- Keep the car's computers powered during the swap so you do not lose settings
- Check the factory warranty first, because many 12V failures happen while the car is still covered
- Clear stored fault codes caused by the low voltage
Signs you need this
- The car will not wake up, unlock or go into drive even though the main battery shows charge
- The screen is black or reboots on its own
- A message warns that the 12V or low-voltage battery needs service
- Random warning lights appear and disappear
- The doors unlock slowly or the key is not recognized
We check your factory warranty before anything else, since a 12V battery on a newer EV is often covered. If it is on you, we give you a written price for the battery and the swap before we start. Tax is on the part only. You choose the warranty length on the work: 90 days, 1 year or 2 years.
Questions people ask
Why does an electric car even have a 12V battery?
Does the big battery charge the small one?
How long does a 12V battery last in Miami?
Can I jump start an EV?
Will the warning light go away after you replace it?
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