
My AC is not blowing cold
Nine times out of ten the system is low on refrigerant because of a slow leak at a seal, a hose, or the condenser up front. Once the charge drops, the air goes from cold to cool to warm, and the compressor may stop cycling to protect itself. The other usual suspects are a compressor clutch or relay, a condenser fan that quit, or a blend door stuck on heat.
What to do right now
- 1Check the small things first: recirculation on, temperature all the way cold, fan on high. If the cabin filter is packed with dust, airflow drops and it feels warm.
- 2Look at the condenser in front of the radiator. Road debris and bent fins block it. Do not pressure wash it; low pressure only.
- 3Note what the compressor does. With the engine running and AC on max, the center of the pulley should spin. If it never engages, or engages and drops out every few seconds, tell us. That points us at the cause fast.
- 4Do not keep adding canned refrigerant. One can might get you a week. The oil and sealer in some cans make the real repair harder.
What it usually is
AC repair
Leak test with dye and an electronic sniffer, repair the leaking part, vacuum and recharge to the exact weight the car calls for.
See the serviceElectrical repair
If the compressor never turns on, it can be a relay, a pressure switch, a fuse, or the clutch coil, not the compressor itself.
See the serviceCooling system
A condenser fan that does not spin means the AC works on I-95 and dies in the Palmetto crawl. That is a fan motor or its control circuit.
See the service